05/14/04: The end of the beginning...

Rwanda, the land of a thousand hills is truly a ‘hidden’ jewel. There is so much raw beauty in this country. On our second to last day Chris and I had the opportunity to visit Rwanda’s Akagera National Park. Just as inspiring as Nyugwe Rainforest and the Volcano Park, yet completely different terrain. Savannah land! Full of animals and birds. Three hours of driving through the bush, we came across Giraffes, a crocodile, a blue bird, Egyptian Geese, Impala, waterbuck, monkeys, baboons, Zebra, a massive elephant and, which came to me as a huge surprise, my favorite bird, the most graceful and proud Fish Eagle. Throughout the day I would have these sudden pangs of sadness – we were leaving. I kept thinking of the students. We returned to Kigali in the evening and decided to visit FAWE to say goodbye one last time. While the “house barbeque” turned out to be a pretty sad goodbye, this surprise visit cheered everyone up. I explained again that this is really only the end of the beginning. Through our website, students will begin to collaborate on all kinds of exciting initiatives.

20 hours in transit at Kenya’s rather small international airport gave me quite some time to reflect over the last forty days. I honestly believe that Rwanda Alive was Global Nomads Group’s most thorough and rewarding program ever executed. Each time we implement a different program, we are able to take the experience gained from earlier programs, making the exchange that much better. I am so proud of the students from both Rwanda and the USA. The comments that all of you made to Brian, Chris and myself just reassures me that GNG is really on the right track.

A HUGE thanks and CONGRATULATIONS to all of you, including the view-only students whose questions reflected both thought and interest in the topics.

Looking a little ‘behind’ the scenes, a month and a half long project takes some serious coordinating. Without the support of so many different parties, this project would never have materialized. On behalf of GNG I would like to sincerely thank our corporate sponsors:

Polycom
IDSolutions
VSPAN
EMS Technologies

Being a non-profit we are obviously on extremely tight budgets and besides our corporate in-kind sponsors, I am most grateful to you, the individual donor. Without you or your families support, our Rwanda Alive project would never have taken off. You have touched the lives of every single student involved in our program – thank you.

If you are a student that was involved in Rwanda Alive, we depend on you guys to spread the “word” about what GNG does, ask those who you think may be interested in supporting us to do so.

I am currently in Mozambique, taking five days off visiting Mayur Modi, an old friend of mine whom I have not seen in about six years – more time for needed reflection. I passed through Johannesburg in South Africa and drove to Maputo in Mozambique with my friend. Before our departure, I paid my respects to Nelson Mandela, not in person but to a statue erected of him in Sandton…

Really, what it boils down to is trying to make our world a better more peaceful place and the best way to do so is by communicating, understanding each others similarities, respecting each others differences. As Nelson Mandela said:

“Education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world”

Many many thanks to all the students involved in Rwanda Alive – you guys are shaping the future of the world.

THANK YOU.

05/08/04 : Goodbye for now...

Who was it who said that "parting is such sweet sorrow"? If anyone is by chance sitting next to the guy, can you ask him just what exactly is sweet about it? Because I'm at a loss.

Today we hosted our farewell party for the FAWE and La Colombiere students who participated in our broadcasts. We had a barbeque at our house, and about 40 hungry teenagers showed up. Amidst games of darts and an introduction to the fine art of frisbee throwing, I watched as these kids devastated bowls of peanuts and popcorn, leveled plates of brochette, cheeseburgers and potato salad, and shoveled ice cream into their mouths as if it was the elixer of eternal life. It was an awe-inspiring feast to behold. Dr. Atkins, rest in peace, would have been appalled.

Then came the tough part. As the afternoon became evening, the kids sat us down and thanked us for what we had done. Not for the food, mind you, but for their new outlooks, and for introducing them to their new friends who are 5000 miles away. Then, as if that wasn't enough, it got personal. They thanked us for being the individuals that we are, and for caring enough to do a project like this. And for the two hunderd and sixty first time on this trip, Mark, Chris and I sobbed like little babies.

Julien spoke eloquently on behalf of La Colombiere, with such self-assurance and thoughtfullness, I could hardly believe he was seventeen. I have no doubt that he will be a well-loved leader for the rest of his life. Ingrid then spoke for the FAWE girls, and after a few heartfelt words, invited all of her classmates to join her in song. And so, in a reprise from our introductory week with the girls, they sang to us. Sadly, however, this time it was to say goodbye. At one point, I wiped some tears away to steal a glance at Chris, who was so overcome, his eyelids looked as if they were experiencing some vicious allergic reaction. I was grateful for the company.

After the girls had finished their performance, the three of us each struggled to say something even remotely poignant. About the best any of us could do was to utter a quavering "Thank you" before the old lump in the throat halted any more words from passing. Yeah, I'd say it was emotional.

During our final goodbyes, the napkins went as quickly as the food had only hours before. We hugged, cried, blew our noses, wrote down all our contact info a thousand times, and only after their principal insisted, we said farewell. Then, in a homage to the hundreds of kids on the various dirt roads who have so delightfully obliged us, we chased after their school bus, waving and cheering as it drove off.

I'm telling you all this not to pat ourselves on the back, but to try to paint the picture of what it is like to say goodbye to a group of kids who have given us as much of a life-changing experience as GNG has given them. It's as hard as anything I've ever done, and I took the SAT twice. For me, the goodbye was not sweet at all. It was damn sad.

If I search myself, though, the sweet is in the fact that I know it's not our final goodbye. Thankfully we live in an age of advanced technology (see also: GNG) which ensures that I will be in touch with my new African friends via email until they can't take anymore of my melodramatic rhetoric and fragmented sentences. Likewise, I know that I'll be coming back here someday, and that some of these kids will be getting full scholarships to universities in the States. And that's a nice little consolation, when the heartache of having to part ways weighs on you like a ton of bricks.

Thank you, students of Kigali, for everything you've taught me and the profound effect you have had on my life. I can't wait for our next hello.

05/07/04: From Chris

Over a month ago, with the support of individuals, corporations, schools and foundations, GNG launched Rwanda Alive. As you have witnessed, we brought youth in the United States face-to-face with their peers in Rwanda.

I don't think any of us where prepared for what has transpired over the last month and the impact it has had on us all. It has been a month of laughter, thought and tears as these young people discovered humanity. We started with inquisitive minds exploring each others culture, cuisine, sports and misconceptions. With a level of trust and interest we explored what truly happened 10 years ago when close to a million people where killed by the genocide in this country. As an outsider, I listened to the testimonials being broadcasts from youth in Rwanda to their peers in the US. I listened as these youth shared how they lost their family members and loved ones and how they are finding the strength to reconcile and rebuild Rwanda. From there, we went on to look at how the indigenous Ba'Twa people continue to struggle for their place in Rwandese society. We saw first hand, the traditional dances and the amazing pottery that they create.

The journey of Rwanda continued with a look at how HIV/AIDS has crippled Africa and a discussion on how the young people of the world can be a powerful force in making great change. From HIV/AIDS we started to examining environmental issues, in particular the habitat of the Mountain Gorillas. We explored the Mountain Gorillas through live broadcasts from the Dian Fossey Karisoke Research Center as well as the first ever live broadcast from the natural habitat of the Mountain Gorilla. I think I can speak for all participants that when you see these awesome giant animals look into your eyes you are changed for ever.

So here we are a month later and we have started our final conferences that bring these youth together to look at how they can collaborate to change the world. Yesterday participants began to brainstorm on how they can write government officials to help with housing for the Bat'wa, how they can raise money for the orphans of the genocide, keep spreading the word on HIV/AIDS preservation and the need for more support to protect the last of the Mountain Gorillas.

I have never seen a group of young people more prepared and ready to change the world and I feel honored and blessed to have been a part of such a journey.

I would like to take a moment and thank all of the sponsors, donors and participants who have created Rwanda Alive. Global Nomads Group exists solely thanks to the financial support of individuals, corporations and foundations who believe in our mission of "fostering dialogue and understanding of the worlds youth." As we leave Rwanda alive, I would like to ask for your help with continuing to harness the minds, knowledge and strength of our global youth for constructive cross-cultural exchange. If you know of schools and teachers that would like to participate in our programs send them our way. If you have resources and time to donate to the mission of the organization contact us soon, and if you have financial resources to contribute so that more young people can have this type of opportunity. please click here and support GNG.

Once again, I would like to thank all of the sponsors and participants of
Rwanda Alive and look forward to many more life changing programs.

05/03/04: From Mark

I really did not know what I was getting myself into. I initially thought that a live broadcast from the natural habitat of the Mountain Gorilla (which had never been done before) would be something that Global Nomads Group could accomplish, and was surely worthwhile.

We have done broadcasts from the Mayan ruins in Copan (Honduras), on top of a roof in Baghdad just after the war, but wild gorillas? I truly believe that the officials from the ORTPN initially thought we were mad. Sure they have had films made where a few cameras are used, but live? They were skeptical. We explained that we had a special generator, with a setup that would allow them to look at a screen and receive and answer questions, and see the gorillas from a distance without disturbing them. The whole time I was pretty darn nervous about pulling it off. How can one know all the variables of something that had never been tried before?

As Chris and Brian mentioned, luck was on our side. It took about 20 people in total to make this whole thing happen but in the end, it did! What an amazing feat to capture such beauty, live, without disruption to the habitat, and knowing that students are seeing these beautiful creatures live from thousands of miles away. The first family we did the live broadcast from, group Sabinyo, consisted of ten gorillas. Given the think dense vegetation they were in, we focused on three of them.

There was the HUGE silverback that was basically lying down chilling out, a female holding her 2-week old baby, which looked so human it was scary, along with another female close by. The pictures should offer you an insight into these incredible creatures.

The second day, Ingrid, Janet and their teacher Maria joined us. We woke up extremely early to reach a group of 13 gorillas called the AMAHORO group (this means ‘peace’ in Kinyarwanda). WOW. Another trek through thick trees and vines as well as a bamboo forest that was pretty unexpected. Initially they thought that the group was about an hour’s climb. Three hours later we reached the group and immediately forgot about the trek. Again, I share pictures with you so you guys can see the stunning beauty of the Mountain Gorilla. I observed 2 infants for quite some time. They were having so much fun, for about half an hour they were teasing and play fighting with each other – reminding me exactly of my brother, Alex and I, age 10 and 11, sitting in a car on a 10 hour drive. The teasing began slowly and then broke out into an all out struggle! I managed to capture a series of pictures – no not of my brother and me but of the “other” brothers! See below.

05/03/04: From Brian

When was the last time you took a ride in the back of a pickup truck with the barrel of an AK-47 inadvertently pointed at your head? Me? One week ago.

So much can happen in a week, especially with the schedule that Mark, Chris and I are attempting to keep pace with right now. Chris may have mentioned it, but I would also like to apologize for the delay in communication. Internet cafes are not as prevalent as one might like in this still developing country.

Let’s go back a week, though. From our lodge in Ruhungeri, Mark and I decided it would be fun to ride in the back of a pickup truck on the way to our conference at the Karisoke Research Center (base camp for the Dian Fossey team of gorilla researchers). It just so happens that we shared the truck bed with one of the group’s trackers; a man who’s English is bad, but his gun is large, so he gets by nicely. About twenty minutes into the drive, we stopped because the driver suspected that the breaks didn’t work. After a five minute study, he confirmed that indeed, the car was out of break fluid, then smiled and told us that it would decrease our commute time (now that’s optimism). Before driving off, another three men who were friends of the tracker piled into the back with us for a free lift up the mountain. I think it was as I was introducing myself to these men, that I noticed the barrel of the tracker’s gun had shifted down to draw a bead on my forehead. So I’m thinking, “OK, I’m in a weighted down car with no breaks, and if we hit a bump my face will look like a big Cheerio”. Obviously, we made it in one piece, but the funny thing is that life has been a bit more beautiful ever since.

For example, the ride back to Kigali after our successful Karisoke conference traipsed us past two gorgeous lakes that had islands within them. We stopped at one, and watched an anonymous Rwandan woman load sacks of grain into her canoe, then gracefully row herself out of sight. A little while later, our driver (Patrick this time) stopped in a small village and tried to auction me off to the locals. Loosely translated, he said that he had a hard working white man for sale to the highest bidder. The villagers were amused, but alas, I was just too skinny for the type of work that they’re used to. And of course, the whole four hour drive felt like a parade, with Chris and me as Grand Marshals waving to the throngs of excited children on the side of the road – each one cheering as we drifted past.

Back in Kigali, we rented a 4x4, and set out again, this time in the opposite direction, for the Nyungwe Forest. You might remember me telling you about our prior experience there (lack of proper documentation), but this time we came prepared. We didn’t have a signed letter from the ORTPN (Rwandan Board of Tourism), but instead brought our friend Ernest, one of the heads of the ORTPN. I’ll let Mark tell you about our experiences in the forest, since he is the trailblazer of our group, but I’ll just add that if you like a tough hike, Chimpanzee tracking in Nyungwe Forest is for you. I however don’t like a tough hike, and spent most of that day falling or standing up after falling. I’m still sore.

Finally, I’d like to put my two cents in on today, our first face-to-face experience with Mountain Gorillas. I think today might have been the greatest day of my life. You can try to prepare yourself for the encounter, you can listen to the stories of being three feet away from these magnificent placid animals, you can be told how human-like they are (which is, in retrospect, a put down), or how beautiful it is to watch them care for one another. You can build your expectations up as high as you’d like, and I promise you, the experience will exceed your wildest imagination. For me, to be as close as I was to these wise and powerful creatures felt like being in the presence of God. I know that sounds crazy, but that’s the best I can do to put it into words. It is true that they resemble us, but I can’t help but wonder if they got the better end of evolution. They live in perfect harmony with the Earth; eating, sleeping and traveling as they please. From their interaction with one another and their initial protective posturing at the sight of approaching humans, it was obvious that they love one another. They’re gender roles do not seem unfair as they sometimes do with man, but rather added to the synchronicity of their lifestyle. I’d even go so far as to call it chivalry.

I either have to stop now, or GNG will have to add more bandwidth to their website. I could talk about the gorillas for days, and let this be fair warning to my family and friends: Don’t get me started.

Tomorrow I’ll visit them again, and I plan to savor every minute of the hour that a tourist is allotted for observation. It’s great to be alive.

05/03/04: From Chris

It has been quite some time since I have written. We are in our last days here in Rwanda and we have been running around to accomplish all that we have needed to do. As you have heard we have been Chimpanzee tracking, searching for Gorillas, visiting churches and preparing and launching numerous broadcasts for the youth in Rwanda and the US.

Last week we made our way to the Karisoke Research Center near the home of the Mountain Gorillas. We visited with the chief scientist Katie Fawcett. She has been head of the research center for the last two years and shared with us many tales of her experiences with the gorillas. Besides Katie, we met with several of the other researchers and experts of the center, the one continual theme from listening to their stories were how human-like these animals are and how the researchers bonded with them through their observations and preservation of their habitat. The Karisoke Center is located at the base of 5 volcanoes and has a magnificent view from right outside its doorsteps. After hearing all of the stories, it was hard to fathom that these Gorillas really did exist and that they where only an hour or so away.

Today, it all changed, we left early this morning with the park warden and members of the ORTPN to find the gorillas for today’s broadcast. For months I have been telling Mark how I thought this was one of the dumbest ideas GNG ever had and that, the moment the project had to be pulled because we couldn’t run after the gorillas fast enough, I was going to say “I told you so.” Well, when we arrived at the main office of the ORPTN just at the bottom of the volcano, the warden told us some good news; the family of gorillas that we where going to see where only 1 hour away. We all piled into vehicles and headed closer to the forest. After we parked the car a half-dozen porters picked up all of our equipment and headed through fields of crops toward the mountains. As we arrived to the start of the forest we met the trackers who had seen the gorillas earlier and told us that they where at the very edge of the forest, only 10 minutes away from where we where standing.

We arrived several hours before our launch time, so the trackers took Brian, Mark and me to see the gorillas quickly so we would know how much cable we would need between our camera at the gorillas and where we would set up base camp with the satellites and all. Well, the first sighting was amazing. I first saw one gorilla, and then a baby climbed onto a tree and I saw him eat some leaves. We decided that was all we needed and started to head back to the base camp to set up the equipment. As we started to walk away, Brian who was behind me said “go faster”. I really didn’t think much of it until I heard the anxiety in Brian’s voice as he kept repeating “go faster” I looked back and there was a female gorilla and then the silver back gorilla heading our way. I was extremely nervous and then I gave Mark a little nudge to continue as well, then Mark saw them and then we swiftly made our way out of the forest and back to base camp.

Even though we had seen the gorillas, I wasn’t convinced that this broadcast was going to work (let us remember they are gorillas. They can go anywhere in what is a massive park). I decided to just work with the team and get the equipment ready for the broadcast and leave it up to God if this was going to work or not. So at noon our time we dialed into America and had the warden and others from the ORTPN discuss the gorillas with the students who had woken up at 4 am to be a part of this historical broadcast. When we started, we still hadn’t gotten our cable and cameras to the gorillas as they had already moved. Ten minutes into the conference, we got a call from Brian on the walkie talkies that he had a gorilla in frame. So we went with Brian’s camera and sure enough there was a family of gorillas sitting in their forest, eating and resting in the sun. And from then on we had an hour of live interactive education between young people in the United States with professionals in Rwanda discussing Nature at its finest with the sites and sounds of the Mountain Gorilla in their natural habitat. So the conference that I thought would never happen happened, and I think it is one of the finest hours of education this organization has brought to young people around the world.

Until next time.

05/03/03: Photos of gorilla broadcast