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A basic understanding of the Japanese religious sensibility must begin with Shinto, not a "national religion" in any official sense, but one that influences virtually every aspect of Japanese culture and society. There are 13 mainstream Shinto sects and numerous sub sects in Japan today.

Although not a systemized set of beliefs, it can be said that Shinto shares tenets with many other primitive faiths of the world. These beliefs include that all natural objects and phenomena possess a spiritual side. It is this animism, mixed with ancestor worship that characterizes Shinto. A tree, for example, was revered by the ancient Japanese as a source of food (nuts and fruit), of energy (firewood), of shelter and even of clothing. For that reason, when a great tree was felled to provide wood for the (Buddhist) temple complexes at Nara or Kyoto, it was not used for several years, to give the spirit time to safely depart.

It should be recognized that the term kami, although usually translated as "god" is quite different from the Western concept of divinity. The classic definition, as originally understood in Japan, is: "Anything whatsoever which was outside the ordinary, which possessed superior power, or which was awe-inspiring, was called kami." Today, we often hear expressions like "the god of baseball," or "the god of management." Not intended to be taken entirely tongue-in-cheek, the Japanese at least subconsciously still believe that their land and its air is filled with the presence of kami-sama of all kinds.

In ancient Shinto there was a belief in a soul that lived on after death. Primitive Shinto had concepts of heaven and hell, although they were hazily defined. There was no concept of sin, divine retribution, or absolution for offenses committed. It was commonly thought the dead would eventually be reborn into the world.

EXPERIENCING A SHINTO SHRINE

The thousands of Shinto shrines, known as jinga (or jingu when they are national shrines), vary in size from tiny roadside boxes to large compounds. Nearly all share certain features.

Understanding the structure: First, there is at least one torii. This gateway may have evolved from a bird's perch as a bird is often a religious symbol in many animistic cults, and may be made of wood, stone, metal or even concrete. The torii serves to mark off areas considered sacred from those thought profane. Often the largest building of the shrine is the honden: the main dwelling of the deity. Elevated above the other buildings and reached by a staircase, it is usually off-limits to visitors. Inside are a few green twigs, changed daily; an earthen vessel for offerings; and a grass mat for the head priest who administers these rituals. Naturally, everything is kept scrupulously clean in accordance with Shinto's fixation on ritual purity. In front of the honden is the worship hall used for ritual ceremonies. This structure is a roof supported by pillars, open on all sides, and is used only by the priests and special guests.

What to do: There are no elaborate rituals or prescribed procedures involved in worshiping at a shrine. On entering the grounds you see a stone wash-basin, often with wooden, bamboo or tin ladles balanced across it. Here you rinse your mouth and hands in preparation for approaching the deity. It is customary to toss a small offering into the cashbox at the foot of the haiden before sounding the piñata-like shaker to attract the attention of the god. Most devout worshipers also clap their hands twice, making doubly sure the god is listening. Then, with or without the hands held together, a deep bow is performed and held while the prayer is offered. Two more sharp claps of the hand, another light bow, and the simple ritual is done. The worshiper backs slowly away a few steps before turning and going about his or her business. Charms "guaranteed" to ensure a variety of good fortunes may be sold nearby.

Festival traditions: Although shrines are usually serene, they undergo a complete transformation at festival time. On such occasions, the gods are taken out for rollicking rides through the streets in mikoshi (portable shrines) by tipsy bearers to bring the blessings of the kami-sama to all the community. This regular communion between local residents and the kami preserves ancient traditions and helps maintain cohesion in the community during periods of rapid social change.

Traditional Arts in Japan
Shinto Defined
The "Middle Way" of Buddhism
Experiencing a Buddhist Temple
Japanese Cheat Sheet